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Led by a young “explorer” named Ramanuj Ghosh, we began at Mullick Ghat’s famous flower market, where some 2,000 vendors produce wreaths of marigolds and red hibiscus for celebrations and religious rites. Iftekhar Ahsan, the young entrepreneur behind tour company Calcutta Walks, not long ago converted a 1926 townhouse into Calcutta Bungalow, a pioneering heritage hotel in an area of North Kolkata dotted with the decaying mansions of Bengali traders who grew rich off the Raj. That puts it in the same category as the General Post Office and St. John’s Church. A Park Street institution celebrated for its Iranian-style chelo kebabs. 27 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd. But my room was outfitted for the modern business traveler, with practical rather than evocative furnishings and only the slightest nod to the building’s age. Sections of this page. A signboard above the pillared porte-cochere identified the faded beauty as the Institute of Education for Women, though a smaller plaque informed me it was originally known as Hastings House—the onetime summer residence of the first British governor-general of India, Warren Hastings. In modern times, sporadic attempts to decentralize and decongest the urban core have never come together into a coherent strategy for simultaneously developing the city and preserving its unique character. Recent Posts. Weekend Recipe: Thai-Inspired Braised Beef Noodles. Silliman, who grew up in the Calcutta of the 1960s, also told me about the recent refurbishment and rededication of the city’s two surviving synagogues, the oldest of which, Beth El, dates to 1856. 32/4 Old Ballygunge, 1st Lane; 91-33/6460-1002. Later that afternoon, I met up with husband-and-wife scholars Tathagata Neogi and Chelsea McGill to learn more about the fight to stop those buildings from disappearing altogether. Photo about January 08.2011 Kolkata,West Bengal,India,Asia-A traditional house of the Old Kolkata. An Exciting Trip to West Bengal and Odisha – Mr. Naman Yadav Our family has been... 5 facts about Danteras that you didn’t know of, Maha Saptami – Celebrating the power of Goddess Durga, Everything You Need To Know About Guna Caves in Kodaikanal, The Rich History of the Beautiful Hill Station of Mussoorie, An Exciting Trip to West Bengal and Odisha, Visit real-life Bollywood sets with #SterlingBioscope, 25+ Dishes you could cook to make Mother’s Day special, Top 7 Places in India to Celebrate the Most Memorable Holi 2020. “Because it doesn’t have any theoretical foundation, the list is dangerously prone to manipulation,” said Deb Lal, bemoaning the destruction of several post-independence structures associated with Writers’ Building. Journeys; Spice Boxes; Local Projects; Series; People; Youth Voices As I discovered over the next few days, however, India’s economic rise has helped to dispel the Bengalis’ postcolonial hangover. The designation meant all renovations had to be cleared through the city’s Heritage Conservation Committee and changes to the exterior were not permitted, despite the fact that the building was virtually falling apart when restoration work began in 2012. Designers Interiors Architects Welfare Association. But,” he added with a frown, “most of those houses have already been demolished.”. Star Theatre. 91-33/2460-3922. Built in 1910, Esplanade Mansions is a rare example of art nouveau design in Kolkata. Accessibility Help. I understood why Deb Lal, who holds a PhD in architectural history from the University of Edinburgh, wanted to meet me here. Ambuja Neotia Hospitality, which operates various clubs and resorts as well as the Swissôtel Kolkata, last year completed a modern replica of an old Bengali rajbari (mansion) to launch an opulent boutique hotel—the Raajkutir—that offers carriage rides, Victorian high tea, and an extensive menu of single malts. Open In Google Maps. In part, that’s down to an undeservedly grim reputation. Rajesh Sen at the Zs’ Precinct in South Kolkata. Lake Market. That means there is often no way to turn the most notable (and therefore most heavily restricted) buildings into commercial ventures and every incentive simply to let them fall into ruin, after which they can be declared derelict and be demolished. We arrived just in time to avoid the long queue, and my tablemates, who run a tour company called Heritage Walk Calcutta, ordered up a feast worthy of twice our number, including deep-fried flatbreads filled with green peas (koraishutir kochuri) that are a winter staple. The battle to save Kolkata’s crumbling heritage buildings. The storied Fairlawn Hotel, an eclectic colonial throwback that has hosted hip and famous guests ranging from Günter Grass to Sting, was recently acquired by Brij Raj “Diamond” Oberoi, a nephew of the founder of Oberoi Hotels & Resorts. ... this heritage site houses stunning tombs built in both the Gothic and Indo-Saracenic styles of architecture. ; 91-33/2286-1699. 31 Giri Babu Lane, Kolkata 700012. Looking up at the bougainvillea-festooned window boxes on the building’s pretty red-brick exterior, I recalled Deb Lal’s complaint about the “facade-ism” that has become a stand-in for more substantial conservation efforts in the absence of a comprehensive heritage plan. But as Neogi (who earned a doctorate in archeology from England’s University of Exeter) and McGill (who has a master’s degree in South Asian studies) explained, there is so much to preserve that a constant battle is inevitable, especially without a coherent vision for delineating historical districts and landmarks. Keeping things tidy at Kolkata’s 1864-built General Post Office Building. During October’s Durga Puja, the most important Hindu festival for Bengalis, this bazaar is an impassable mass of people and blooms, Ghosh explained. startheatre.co.in. The next morning I stepped out to explore what UNESCO would call Kolkata’s intangible heritage on a guided walking tour with Calcutta Walks. Home to an excellent museum and public gardens, the grandiose Victoria Memorial is one of Kolkata’s better preserved monuments to empire. Architecture, sculpture, terracotta and painting developed extensively during the Pala Dynasty rule from 8th to 12th century. “A lot of new nonprofits have come up,” Neogi said. ... "This was first church of the early British settlers and this is reflected in both its Georgian architecture and the often touching inscriptions on … Please note that the names are arranged in … 1 Queen’s Way; 91-33/ 2223-1890. It is the leading award-winning travel magazine in the Asia-Pacific region, with a print run of 32,788 copies and a readership of 98,364 per edition. An Exciting Trip to West Bengal and Odisha. But even on this off-season day for the flower sellers, we had to be on the lookout for the deliverymen who keep the stalls stocked as they plunged down the narrow lanes with Volkswagen-size loads of marigolds balanced on their heads. Kolkata, Oct 31 (IANS) A coffee table book, “Kolkata Happening City”, with more than 2,700 photographs of iconic buildings and unique facts on its distinctive old-world architecture was launched here on Tuesday. This haphazard development is most noticeable in the fringe areas around the central core formed by the city of Kolkata and the suburb of Haora. Book appointments on Facebook with Architectural Designer in Kolkata. 15 Shakespeare Sarani; 91-33/2282-9950; doubles from US$70. And several other ventures scattered around town are starting to show that heritage has marketable value, not only for individual property owners but also for entire neighborhoods. The entries are so vague that travesties like the encroachment on the grounds of Hastings House have been inevitable. Kolkata, formerly known as Calcutta in English, is the capital of the Indian state of West Bengal and is located in eastern India on the east bank of the River Hooghly.The city was a colonial city developed by the British East India Company and then by the British Empire. But Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, was the capital of India for 39 years during the British rule, and it remains the top spot to see colonial architecture, a must-see city for architecture lovers to include on their India itineraries. Old building architecture of Kolkata. The wooden ceiling had long planks and solid wooden logs to bear the load of the ... with a special focus on the Raj and Kolkata. After detailing the restoration process and the creative ways he’s making the building pay for itself (an artist-in-residence room upstairs and pop-up restaurant events, for instance), Sen took me on a lightning tour of the surrounding neighborhood to illustrate its potential value as a historic district. Then I recalled something Deb Lal had told me when I first arrived in town: city officials and residents alike are quick to discount the heritage value of “modern” architecture. “But in terms of actual restoration work, there hasn’t been much.”. Never a city for colonial nostalgia, the former Calcutta has a poor record when it comes to protecting its architectural heritage. Order By. Book appointments on Facebook with Architectural Designer in Kolkata. The grande dame of Kolkata hotels occupies a landmark neoclassical building that dates to the mid-1800s. Copyright © 2018 DESTINASIAN MEDIA GROUP - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The city’s main colonial-era edifices—from the grand General Post Office and Writers’ Building to the hushed confines of St. John’s Church, whose grounds house Job Charnock’s mausoleum and the Black Hole Monument—are undeniably evocative. The “House with a Head”, as the current owner Aveek Sen calls it, was recast as a modern gallery space once the curator-writer collaborated with gallerists Priyanka and Prateek Raja. Situated near the east bank of the Hooghly river, the Calcutta High Court Building is a neo-gothic landmark dating to 1872. DestinAsian is distributed in Singapore, Hong Kong, Malaysia, Thailand, Philippines, and the rest of the world. The Luxe List 2019: 88 Armenian, Malaysia, Southeast Asian Cocktails to Shake Up at Home. “This isn’t a spectacularly different house from what people know of from their lifetime. Calcutta Walks guide Ramanuj Ghosh at the Mullick Ghat flower market. A virtual route of creative and cultural exchange. Developed from three riverside villages granted to the East India Company by the nawab of Bengal in 1690, Kolkata—known until recently as Calcutta—became the first capital of the British-held territories in India a century later and remained the capital of British India until the seat of government was moved to New Delhi in 1911. Located far from the heart of the city, at Belvedere Avenue, around 30 kms off Kolkata, the National Library is not just a literary sojourn but also a ghost-buster's delight. General Post Office: Old Post Office Architecture - See 58 traveler reviews, 20 candid photos, and great deals for Kolkata (Calcutta), India, at Tripadvisor. Considered an architectural wonder of Kolkata, St. Paul’s Cathedral is the largest church in Kolkata and the first cathedral that was built in the overseas territory of the British Empire. ; 91/98-3007-0213; doubles from US$345. But inside her elegant, high-ceilinged apartment, Silliman talked for an hour about heritage projects it would have taken me a month to discover. A slim, practical woman dressed in a green tweed vest and khaki pants, her hair parted in the middle and tied back with a rubber band, Deb Lal briefed me on those hurdles with the aid of a map of landmarks she’d helped develop on behalf of the nonprofit Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) some years ago. This home by Abin Design Studio, enriched with heirloom treasures and a fusion of classic and contemporary elements, is a tribute to his family. At first glance, it didn’t seem all that monstrous to me. These houses give Kolkata its unique old-world charm and reflect the amazing architectural ethos of the city, but they are being lost in the mad … Then walk to the corner and down the lane, and you’ll see an old, old bungalow.”. Each of the mentioned firms is involved in producing the best architectural projects. And while the plush Phoenix nightclub downstairs harkens back to the 1960s, when The Astor was one of the few jazz clubs in town, it has the aspect of a disco that swallowed a sports bar rather than someplace Duke Ellington might have played. But beyond these, there’s a romance to the decaying mansions, temples, and civic buildings that is lacking in the perfectly conserved monuments and palaces of France or Germany; the sense of history that comes with scars. 14. The driving force behind a collaborative online media archive called Recalling Jewish Calcutta, she has most recently authored Where Gods Reside, a book that explores the city’s diverse places of worship—lesser-known gems include a Greek Orthodox church and a Japanese Buddhist temple. A genial man with a neatly trimmed gray beard, Sen took justifiable pride in showing me the work he had done to preserve the property’s original features (red oxide floors, decorative window grilles) while modifying it for use as an art gallery and museum shop–style boutique that sells eclectic apparel and home decor. Built during the expansion of South Kolkata after the first partition of Bengal in the early 20th century, the 89-year-old art deco building that now houses The Zs’ Precinct had been lying vacant for a couple years before retired Indian Tobacco Company executive Rajesh Sen acquired it in 2015. “There has always been a hesitance to take hard measures,” Deb Lal said. This nine-suite bolt-hole overlooking the Victoria Memorial is not a heritage property per se, but it’s done up to look like one, with an exquisite collection of antique Bengal-colonial furniture and art. To make the Victorian building a profitable venture, owner Vikram Puri, a former Wall Street investment banker whose father purchased The Astor in a distressed sale in 1999, opted to retain its colonial flavor in the reception and common areas, which boast patterned marble flooring, wrought-iron railings, and a beautiful staircase made of Burmese teak. Heritage Walk Calcutta’s Tathagata Neogi and Chelsea Mcgill on the grounds of St. John’s Church. kolkata architecture -british period 1. kolkata (english colonial architecture) sonakshi bhattacharjee(114ar0024) mithilesh mandal (114ar0006) suchetana chakravarty(114ar0025) 2. timeline 3. wrighter’s building place –kolkata (1777-1906) designed by thomas lyon 4. architectural context 5. Kolkata: This architect's home embodies a bond between his mother & son. Balconies over ground floor galleries, liberal use of cast iron, and beautiful, intricate railing work. It’s apparently been the city’s premier spot for traditional Bengali favorites like prawn malaikari (whole prawns in coconut-milk gravy) and mangshor jhol (a spicy mutton curry) since it opened in 2003. Steeped in the intellectual patriotism that made Calcutta the center of the Indian independence movement in the early 20th century and later gave rise to Subhas Chandra Bose and his Indian National Army, Bengalis have been reluctant to embrace the city’s legacy of imperial rule, even though the Victoria Memorial—a white-marbled pile built a century ago in the so-called Indo-Saracenic style—is perhaps the most remarkable homage to empire in all of India. At the same time, as in Delhi and other cities throughout India, owners bear the brunt of restrictions on what they can do with their property without any state funding for maintenance or upkeep, apart from exemption from property taxes. The looming threat to its landmarks notwithstanding, for the tourist, Kolkata remains breathtaking. The past lives on everywhere, clashing and combining with the future in a colorful tapestry: flower vendors hand-stripping stems of their thorns by the bushel with their smartphones laid on the pavement beside them; hawkers rolling and folding samosas for suited office workers and young rockers festooned with piercings; dhoti-clad laborers taking their morning bath in the frigid Hooghly, just as they have done for hundreds of years. Then we hopped on a ferryboat to Kumartuli, a traditional potters’ quarter where sculptors manufacture icons of the goddess Kali and other Hindu gods out of straw and clay from the Hooghly. Mullick Bazar, Park Street area Kolkata, West Bengal, 700017, ... Old … With business thriving, The Astor is now a testament to how heritage can be revived with a little ingenuity and a lot of perseverance. Between them, Singapore Airlines and subsidiary SilkAir offer daily flights from Singapore to Kolkata. With the exception of the central areas where Europeans formerly lived, the city has grown haphazardly. Once I started looking, I realized that dozens of the neighboring homes boasted similar rounded balconies, glassed stairwells, and circular windows that are hallmarks of the art deco style. Interior Design Studio. old building it still characterized by old design of ceiling. 18 Park St.; 91-33/2229-8841. A few minutes before we were to meet in the affluent Kolkata neighborhood of New Alipore, conservation architect Nilina Deb Lal called me from her car to say she was just around the corner, but stuck in traffic. May 3, 2019 - Kolkata designed by ranganath krishnamani. The British colonized India for over 200 years, and cities such as Mumbai, New Delhi and Chennai are home to notable Victorian-era buildings. According to the Kolkata Municipal Corporation’s Graded List of Heritage Buildings, The Astor, originally built in 1905 as a boarding house for British soldiers, is a Grade I structure. We threaded through the stalls and down to the riverbank, where some of these workers were bathing in the shadow of the Howrah Bridge. Later that afternoon I settled in for a beer on the sunny restaurant terrace at The Astor, the modest boutique hotel where I was staying. A more than 90 years old building near Rammandir area, MG Road. This article originally appeared in the April/May 2019 print issue of DestinAsian magazine (“Conserving Kolkata”). For a taste of Kolkata-style Chinese food in a converted Tiretta Bazaar dormitory. To do in Kolkata Bengal and Odisha – Mr. Naman Yadav our family has...... ” ) lived, the Calcutta High Court building is a neo-gothic landmark dating to 1872 of. - all RIGHTS RESERVED ; 91-33/ 2223-1890 Hooghly River, the grandiose Victoria Memorial 1. 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